Summer ends. My stay in Northeast Pennsylvania also ends. And so also ends my weekly interactions with Amish people.
I did not meet an Amish person until I was into my sixth or seventh decade. I believe there are Amish in Wisconsin but not where I grew up. None were at my college nor in the cities where I lived. And while parts of Pennsylvania have concentrations of Amish, they did not live in the parts of the state where we have a summer home.
After we had the summer house for several years, an Amish family started a weekly market in a Methodist church parking lot down the hill from us. It was a godsend. Summer is not summer without good, fresh, ripe tomatoes and corn, and that was not always easily available to us. Farm country is twenty miles north of our home and twenty-five miles south, but that’s too far to go for a good tomato. The land around us is hilly and rocky. We see no farms—no peapods or grazing Jerseys. There are no farm stands, and the desired corn and tomatoes were often hard to find. Until the Amish came.
At the beginning, an Amish man was in charge. After a while, I started chatting with him each week. I learned that he and the girls who accepted payments were part of the same family who lived on a farm about 120 miles west. Over time, our brief conversations expanded from the weather and the ripeness of the produce to something slightly more personal. He learned that I had been a lawyer, and I learned that besides farming he did construction. Up to this point, my Amish knowledge had been that they dressed in nineteenth century farm clothes and that their religion forbade them from having electricity in their homes. Of course, they could not drive cars and got around by horse and buggy. When the Amish man told me he did construction, my image was of muscle-powered saws and hand-cranked drills, but my acquaintance lit up when he told me how much he enjoyed using tools powered by compressed air.
My Amish knowledge expanded further, to my surprise, during a six-month Florida stay near Sarasota. I was startled by seeing a boy and girl walking near the waterfront in what I took to be Amish garb. Then in various parts of town, I saw several men with beards and suspenders and women in long dresses and distinctive head coverings that signaled Amish. In driving around town, a mile or two from the Gulf, I found an enclave of modest houses on narrow streets with families in Amish attire getting around on three-wheel bikes. This was an Amish settlement. These Amish came each winter on big buses and stayed until it was planting time up north.
Sarasota had several places that proclaimed themselves Amish restaurants. They had good comfort food. The pie was always outstanding. When I left one of them, I stopped in the gift shop. I found a rack of paperbacks, many of which had a heavily clothed, attractive young woman on the cover. I read the back cover of one and found that it was a romance about Amish young people. This was not my usual reading, but I bought a few.
The prose was repetitive and at about the eighth-grade level. The characterizations were simple. The stories were pleasant with love winning out without clothes being shed. I have since learned that in some publishing circles these are called Bonnet Rippers. They are not written by the Amish, but by evangelical Christians who claim to have Amish friends who helped them understand the Amish culture. The Amish, I am told, are mystified by these romances and do not buy them. However, a lot of other people do. One source said that the top three writers of Amish romances have sold over 24 million books (!).
I enjoyed the romances because I felt that I learned something about the Amish culture even though, I am told, the books often get the Amish theology wrong. My limited knowledge of Amish life expanded five years ago when Amos, who was then sixteen, started coming to the market along with his sister Annie. (Trying to learn more, I also read Steven M. Nolt, A History of the Amish.) Almost every time we meet, Amos and I chat. We laugh frequently often as a result of making fun of each other. Early on, he asked where I lived. I said that while I had a summer home in Pennsylvania, I had lived in Brooklyn for a long time. “City slicker,” he said with a smile. I asked if he had ever been to a city. He said only the outskirts and mentioned some New Jersey suburbs. Even so, he was quite sure that he did not like cities: “Too much hustle and bustle. Too much activity. Too much rushing.” One time, I told him I was going to a Yankees game the following week. He had never seen a baseball stadium. He could not comprehend that 45,000 people were going to be in one location, but he proudly said that he had been to a gathering of hundreds when he attended a horse auction in Harrisburg the previous winter.
I soon learned that there was not an Amish religion. While all Amish shunned aspects of modern life such as electricity in the homes, did not drive motor vehicles, and wore plain clothes, many practices differed by congregation, which are small, often no more than a few dozen people. Some, for example, but not all could have a telephone booth on their property, but no one could have a phone in the house.
The home is the center not only of the family but also of worship. The Amish do not have church buildings. They worship in the houses of the faithful on a rotating basis. The homes are much more comfortable than I had first thought. Amos showed me pictures of his family’s property taken from a drone. It was a lovely farm with a modern looking house. Amos pointed to a window and said that it was his room, which he shared with his younger brother Ben, short for Benuel, a common Amish name. The house, which has indoor plumbing, was kept warm with a wood stove. The kitchen did not have electricity, but a modern oven and refrigerator were run off propane.
Of course, the Amish do not live a monkish life secluded from the world. They have many regular interactions with the “English,” their term for those who are not Amish. And, of course, they pick up stuff from the modern world as a result. Amos, for example, claims to know a lot of country songs. He does not have a radio, but he is driven to the market, a construction site, or elsewhere by an “English” driver. I asked when he rode in the truck whether he listened to the radio. Amos said that they were not supposed to, but then he paused, smiled, and said, “We leave it up to the driver.” I asked if he plugged his ears if the radio played, and Annie, his sister, laughed. Apparently country music predominates on the trips, and thus Amos’s song knowledge. I said that an Amish can’t sing country songs since they are all about how I got drunk last night, and my woman left me. Amos smiled. Sadie, another sister, laughed.
Of course, to this English the Amish folkways often seem inconsistent and contradictory. For example, electricity is supposedly forbidden, but Amos uses battery-powered tools, and my market purchases are toted up on a calculator. They can’t drive a motor vehicle, but they can ride in them. Women do not have buttons but secure their clothes with pins while men button theirs. Amos cannot smoke a cigarette or pipe, but he can smoke a cigar. Amish have beards, but only after they are married. But, come to think of it, every religion I know has inconsistencies, contradictions, and hypocrisies.
The Amish may look dour and humorless, but I have found them to be charming and even impish people. (As I was paying for a green tomato at the weekly Amish market, I asked Annie, who collects the money, if she had ever eaten a fried green tomato. She hesitated but then replied, “Yes.” I said, “Just one?” She answered, “There are better foods.” “Like what?” I asked. “Just about anything,” she responded.) This is remarkable for a group that regularly draws stares and snickers and misinformation. In my summer community, many say the market people are false Amish, or Famish. Some say this because the Amish don’t grow everything they sell. They are supposedly non-Amish hucksters, but these “English” are not very observant. Signs are always placed in front of bins saying “homegrown” or “local” often with even more specificity such as “Eastern shore.” To the even mildly attentive, there is no attempt to pass off bananas as an Amish product. These critics have no explanation as to why non-Amish would wear those heavy clothes on a hot July day and pretend to be Amish.
I have also been “authoritatively” told by several friends that those who run our weekly market can’t be Amish because they come in the produce-carrying truck driven by a non-Amish person. Perhaps, these “knowledgeable” people continue, they are Mennonites but definitely not Amish because Amish can’t ride in a motor vehicle. I told Amish Amos about these conversations. For one of the few times since I met him, he was speechless with open-mouthed bewilderment. I said, “I don’t know much about you guys, but many know even less.” He nodded.
I don’t know whether I will see Amos next year. His family runs a market five days a week, and he used to work at all of them. Now it is only ours. He works construction the other days. Perhaps next year it will be housebuilding all week. I do know that I will not be seeing his sister Nanny next year. She is getting married in October, and once wedded the young women no longer work at the markets. I asked Nanny how many are coming to her wedding. She replied, “400 are invited but probably not that many will come.” At first that number seemed large, but then I remembered meeting Barbie, short for Barbara, a few years ago. I asked if she was the sister of Annie, then the regular checkout person who, having married, is now gone. She said no, that she was a cousin. I asked how many cousins she had. Annie and she exchanged sly glances, almost blushing. It was clear that neither had a definitive answer or perhaps even a good estimate. Barbie then suggested that they had more than a hundred. Annie, I know, has eight siblings. The wedding and festivities, like church services, will be held in the family home.
I strongly hope that the Amish market will be back next year. I want those fresh tomatoes and corn. I hope that Amos will be back. I like him, and if he is not there, I suppose I will have to break in a new Amish friend.