A decade or so ago I went to Israel on an unusual junket—all expenses paid
to study terrorism from an Israeli perspective. My reactions were all over the
map.
As a kid, “shekels” was a slang term for money, but now I was buying chewing
gum with that decidedly non-biblical currency. Back then I had often looked at
the pictures and maps in my Thomas Nelson Revised Standard Version Bible during
the boring parts of church, but only when I went to Israel, did I realize how
small the country is. (Bethlehem is but six miles from Jerusalem.) More
than once on the trip, I was told that Israel is about the same size as New
Jersey. (Is there any other way that New Jersey is like the Holy Land?)
Of course, especially on this trip, there were constant reminders of
terrorism—the disco across from our Tel Aviv hotel where partygoers were bombed
waiting to enter; the Gaza checkpoint where soldiers had been killed; the
meeting with the man disfigured by an incendiary device tossed into his car. These
reminders of terrorism made it hard to remember that someone in Israel is more
likely to be killed in a car accident than by a terrorist and that per capita
more people are killed by guns in America than by terrorists in Israel even
though guns are everywhere in Israel. Soldiers carrying guns are a common
sight. (My favorite—a soldier in sandals carrying a gun slung over one shoulder
and the biggest, reddest purse I’d ever seen balancing on her other side.)
One image of Israel: security, security, security. Searches to get into
the hotel; lengthy interrogations and more to get into the Knesset. Sometimes
I did wonder about the efficacy of these measures. The first time I went
to a restaurant the guard controlling admission did a cursory search. The
second time, he simply said, “Have you got a gun?” I said no and was
nodded in. Would a terrorist tell him he had a gun? By the third day at
the hotel, our group was generally waved around the security check point. Does
that mean a terrorist committed to staying at the hotel for at least three days
could then avoid security? Or is it that I and the rest of the group did
not look Palestinian?
My northern European looks did not stop El Al from subjecting me to rigorous
scrutiny. Going I was pulled aside from the other passengers, interrogated, and
my suitcase thoroughly, I say thoroughly, inspected. Returning it happened
again, but then I had a touch of turista, and the experience seemed to take
even longer. I did get on the plane even though I had fudged the truth. On the
day of departure, it was market time near the hotel. I went to poke around
and ended up buying some gifts of Dead Sea mud and some bee products. I did not
give much mind to these casual purchases until I was asked at the airport
whether my items came from the stall in the market, or whether the seller had
gone into the back to get the facial mask and pollen rejuvenator. Sick I
may have been, but the mind quickly decided the right answer for getting on
board—I picked them off the shelf, handed them to the proprietor, and then paid
for them. Everything was in my sight. But as soon as I said that I
was not absolutely sure that I really knew how the transaction went. Wanting
to get home, I did not voice this little doubt. I was a bit a nervous on most
of the return flight.
We were exposed to many intriguing people—terrorism experts in academic
institutions; drone pilots; agents who were incredible marksmen and, as
indicated by a film of an actual incident, could snatch a suspected terrorist
off the street, throw him in a van, and drive off in a matter of seconds. Perhaps
most striking was the professional interrogator for one of the intelligence
agencies. He entered the room, and his bearing, his aura was such that I would
have told him anything he asked me. He maintained that a professional
interrogator almost never needed to use physical force, implying that
Americans did not have professional interrogators, but he also went on to
discuss whether shaking a subject should be considered torture.
I also saw more usual tourist sights—the cars haphazardly parked; the Tel
Aviv waterfront; Caesarea being set for a beautiful evening, seaside
wedding reception; the I-would-not-believe-it-if-I-had-not-seen-it rest stop in
homage to the King, not David or Solomon, but Elvis Presley.
We spent a few hours touring Jerusalem. Our guide for the day impressed me
when, for reasons no longer remembered, he talked about the obverse of a
coin. Note, not the obverse side of a coin, which would have been
incorrect. I was unsure if I had ever heard a native English speaker use “obverse,”
and my admiration increased when I found out he was certified to give tours in
many languages in addition to English. He took us in and out of many
religious places, and of course, it was important to remember whether the place
was Jewish, Catholic, Orthodox, Coptic, or Muslim in order to put a hat on or
take it off. I think the Upper Room was pointed out, but then another
place was said to be perhaps the site of the Last Supper. Mary’s burial place
was there, but, then again, a location in Turkey is venerated as the place
where her Assumption took place, and of course, it is not clear to Assumption
believers whether she actually died. (And I think that some believe she died in
India.)
We passed stations of the cross and the crucifixion and burial places. I
wondered how people could be so sure that these were the right locations and
why there was no marker for the doorway where the Wandering Jew refused aid. Perhaps
these doubts about authenticity led me to blasphemous thoughts. I was told
to plunge my arm through a hole so that I could feel the rock on which the True
Cross stood. As I did, my mind returned to the sixth grade Halloween
parties where, blindfolded, we put our hands into bowls of grapes and spaghetti
and told we were feeling eyeballs and guts. Of course, many of these now
revered sites were “authenticated” centuries after the events by, I believe,
Constantine’s mother, who also collected many relics, perhaps the relics that
Mark Twain later saw, and amusingly wrote about, in his travels to the
Continent and the Holy Land. Even if they are in the places where the events
happened, I wondered why they are regarded as holy sites. If a religion is
universal, then no place could be more sacred than another.
But the most striking part of the Jerusalem trip was its beginning and end.
Before we entered, the obverse-coin guide brought us to a place that overlooked
Jerusalem. He pointed out things in the old city; where Bethlehem was and is;
the Palestinian-controlled territory; the wall marking the boundary (although
Israelis called it a fence, not a wall); and the mural-painted wall (this was
called a wall) behind us, which prevented Palestinians down below from shooting
into Israeli apartments up above.
Our location was a parking lot, and a nearby food van was, like many other
Israeli places, playing old American rock and roll. The third song I
noticed was Gloria Gaynor’s I Will Survive. I almost laughed at
the remarkable fortuity. I know that the song is about a woman’s strength in
rejecting a lover who walked out, but what better chorus could there be as I
looked out over Israel and Jerusalem than I WILL SURVIVE.
During this trip because of the sensitive places we often visited—military
and intelligence facilities—we were accompanied by heavily armed, young men,
and in Jerusalem I fell into step with such an escort. A few moments later,
some men rounded a corner shouting and elbowing others aside. I asked the
escort, born and raised in Israel, what that was about, and he replied, “Just
some Arabs showing off.” He and I exited the old city together, and I was
visually assaulted by a row of tacky tourist shops. American rock and roll came
from them, too, and the first song I heard outside the old city was R.E.M.’s Losing
My Religion. I smiled and said to the escort, “That doesn’t seem right for
Jerusalem.” He stopped, paused a beat, and thoughtfully said, “I think
that is the only way.”
Is that right? Can there only be peace if we lose our religion?