While conversations
among guests in a hotel or motel are usually sparse and fleeting, bed and
breakfast guests often chat with each other. Perhaps we all want to feel we are
in one of those novels from a hundred or more years ago where the characters
are in a boarding house, as in Balzac’s Pere Goriot, or in an Italian pensione,
as in Forster’s A Room with a View. With the shorter stays in a B and B,
the deep character-revealing conversations of the novels are not the norm. Primarily the conversations are started with:
“What did you do today?” “What have you planned for tomorrow?” “Where are you
from?” “What do (or did) you do?” “Where are you going?”
The first morning I was
in the Idlwilde bed and breakfast, I was reading on the porch in the chilly
air. Another man appeared, and I learned that he was from a small town in
western Wisconsin. I grew up in eastern Wisconsin, and he quickly reminded me of
some of my relatives as he told me in exacting detail the route he had driven
from his home to Watkins Glen, emphasizing at length how he had successfully
skirted Chicago. I don’t remember how he shifted the topic, but soon I heard
him telling me that his wife did not really like wine, but she had sampled wine
in Door County, Wisconsin, that appealed to her. It was made from cherries, and
yesterday the good wife was pleased to find a winery that had sweet wines. The
Finger Lakes region has many wineries and has been primarily known for its
Rieslings, many of which are far from dry. The Wisconsin woman, however, did
not like Rieslings. I was assured that they were not sweet enough, but she was
happy when she found, as her husband put it, a wine like soda and was even
happier when another place offered her a wine slushie. I made a note not to
join that couple for dinner.
On Saturday morning,
both a prospective bride and prospective groom were breakfasting. I thought
this a tradition-breaker until I learned they were not marrying each other. Two
marriage parties were at the bed and breakfast. We exchanged only a few words
with the bride-to-be, but the soon-to-be husband came over to talk with us. He
had hours to go before his ceremony, and he was already hyper and told us about
the family car business he was in, the merits of Toyotas, how he was marrying a
childhood sweetheart, how they had drifted apart when they went to separate colleges,
how they got back together, and like that. He scrolled on his phone until he
could show us a picture of the wedding location. To the delight of the spouse
and me, he was going to be married in front of a waterfall.
The spouse and I most
enjoyed talking with a couple from England. He was retired from the UK’s
Foreign Office. They had been posted to various places in the Mideast and to
Calcutta. He was, however, a little vague about what work he did in these
locations, making me think, “Hmmmm.” He had gone to school in Washington, D.C.,
when his father, also in the Foreign Office, had been posted to Washington, but
this was her first trip to the United States. The trip had been timed so that
they could go to the U.S. Open tennis tournament. She was especially happy to
sit in Arthur Ashe Stadium. As a schoolgirl, she had seen Ashe play at
Wimbledon and found him “elegant.” He remained a favorite.
They had been four
nights in New York and then four more to Boston. From there they went to Stowe,
Vermont, an apparent must-see for Brits visiting the states. They had driven
from Vermont to Watkins Glen, and as with other Europeans I have met, they were
surprised how big the country is. After the Finger Lakes, they were heading to
Niagara Falls, and we discussed what we had liked there. After that, they were
going to Toronto and then home. They were lively, charming, knowledgeable—you
never know from a few brief conversations, but they seemed like people I would
like to be friends with. It was only slightly disconcerting that the spouse
found him to be among the most handsome men she had ever met, something the
spouse remarked upon repeatedly.
While our stay at the
Idlwilde was interesting, our point for being in Watkins Glen was to chase
waterfalls, in this case the waterfalls of Watkins Glen State Park. A deep
gorge ascends over a mile-and-a-half up a thousand feet and it boasts nineteen
waterfalls. We did not have to do much chasing to find the waterfalls. It was a
gorgeous walk—a spectacular end to our chase.
After hiking the gorge,
we headed to Hammondsport, a nearby town where we found the Glen Curtiss
Museum. As a young man, Glen Curtiss was a bicycle builder and racer. Soon he
became a motorcycle builder and racer. And then he became an airplane builder
and flyer. The museum contains artifacts and reproductions from all aspects of
his career including his earliest plane and his seven-foot-long motorcycle upon
which he set a speed record of 136 miles per hour in 1907, a motorcycle record
that stood until 1930.
He is largely unknown
now, but he was especially important in the early stages of aviation. The
Wright Brothers may have been first, but Curtiss was next, and his many
innovations were essential for the early growth of the flying industry.
The Wright Brothers were
very aware of Curtiss. The secretive brothers had obtained patents for
airplanes, and in the opinion of many, excessively broad patents. One of the
patents was for the methods of controlling a plane in flight. The Wrights
depended on wing warping, the twisting of the wing, to help steer a craft.
Curtiss improved on that by putting ailerons, the forerunner of what now
exists, on the wings. Orville and Wilber yelled, “Patent infringement!” This
fight went on for a decade and was only resolved when the patriotism and
necessities of World War I demanded a resolution of the conflict. Animosity,
however, lingered on for years.
A dinner in a popular
local restaurant, breakfast the next morning, and our trip of chasing
waterfalls concluded. We returned to our own summer community and our own waterfalls.
Buck Hill Falls has several beautiful ones, but that is a story for another
day.